Italian wines have changed a lot over the last 60 years.
As hard as it may be to believe, there was a time when the Italian wine industry wasn’t as respected as it is today. For some years, producers focused on creating volume ahead of quality, which led to many Italian wines being relegated to the status of table wines that people didn’t respect for their qualities in the same way they respected French wines.
Though that prejudice still exists, the Italian wine industry has completed a huge turnaround on those perceptions. Today, Italy sells more wine than any other country. And as importantly, it is respected around the world for the quality of its wines.
Many would argue that the change in perception started in the 1960s with the introduction of the DOC and its strict standards. With that in mind, we thought it would be interesting to take a journey through Italian wine over the decades, starting from the 1960s and the introduction of the DOC.
The 1960s
The swinging sixties may have been a peak of human history, at least when it came to music and cultural change. However, it was not the best period for Italian wine. Many Italian wines of the period were still made with a focus on mass production ahead of quality. And though the creation of the DOC helped to change that focus, it only came into being in 1963. And even then, it took several years for enough wines to fall under the DOC banner for the organization’s strict regulations to really take hold.
As such, many of the Italian wines of this era were relegated to cheap table wines that gained little respect from critics or consumers.
Still, some Italian wines managed to carve out niches for themselves. The red wines produced by the Antinori family, particularly its Chianti wines, were among the most popular of this era. Their complex flavours and juicy textures were a step above many of the cheap Italian table wines of the era.
The 1970s
It would be false to say that the 1970s were when people started respecting Italian wine. However, it is the decade during which Italian producers started focusing on how to make their wines more appealing to consumers.
By this point, the DOC has several wines under its banner. However, the 1970s saw more of a revolution in Italian food than it did in wine. Pasta Primavera became one of the world’s trendiest dishes and the introduction of salad bars helped more people adopt the Mediterranean style of living. But when it came to Italian wine during this period, there was only one topic on everybody’s minds:
The Super Tuscans.
Spearheaded by the introduction of Sassicaia, the Super Tuscans saw many of Tuscany’s winemakers introduce non-indigenous grapes to their Sangiovese wines. Though traditionalists fought against these introductions, the Super Tuscans became extremely popular overseas. Soon enough, the likes of Sassicaia and Tignanello had become some of the most popular Italian wines.
The 1980s
Lambrusco was the wine of the 1980s for the Italian industry.
But that had positives and negatives.
On the positive side of things, Lambrusco appealed to international tastes for a sweeter wine. It was especially beloved in the United States, meaning producers were able to rake in profits on the back of their wine.
The negatives were all down to volume. Increased demand led to some producers creating Lambrusco wines that were not of the calibre of early versions of the drink. The knock-on effect was that Lambrusco lost a lot of the respect it once held after the craze for the wine died down. More recently, producers have worked hard to restore the wine’s good name. But it’s not unfair to say that the popularity of Lambrusco also helped contribute to a negative perception of the Italian wine industry.
The 1990s
The 1990s brought with them a renewed love of Merlot. One of the most famous wine grapes, Merlot’s fruit-forward flavours appealed to developing international palates, offering a middle-ground between the Lambrusco wines of the 1980s and the more complex wines that would grow in popularity later on.
Of course, Merlot is not a traditional Italian grape. Though some producers use it, or try to emulate it with their wines, Merlot is definitely French. And that fact sums up the fortunes of much of the Italian wine industry of the 1990s. Negative perceptions from the Lambrusco era still pervaded, leading to a difficult time for the industry. However, it also prompted a renewed focus on quality throughout the decade, which paid dividends later on.
The 2000s
Since the turn of the Millennium, we’ve seen some interesting changes in the wine industry. Rosé wines became more popular. We’ve also seen the rise of organic and biodynamic wines, which Italy has helped to spearhead. Generally speaking, this decade marked the point when the best Italian wines really started to gain the recognition they deserved.
However, the 2000s and 2010s have been dominated by one key trend:
The rise of Prosecco.
Initially marketed as a more affordable alternative to Champagne, Prosecco has rocketed in popularity to the point where it’s the world’s most popular wine. It now handily outsells its famous French cousin and is beloved the world over. The rise of Prosecco has seen the Italian wine industry become the most popular in the world.
And here’s the important bit – Italian producers have learned from their mistakes. Prosecco has maintained its quality as it’s become more popular. As such, the wine often serves as a gateway into the world of Italian wine for many drinkers.
Trends Always Change
It’s interesting to see how trends change as time goes on. The Italian wine industry has certainly experienced peaks and troughs over the last 60 years, with the down periods often being the result of overproduction and misaligned focus.
But today, the Italian wine industry is in the best position it has ever been in. Producers create hundreds of amazing wines each year, many of which you can find in the Xtrawine catalogue.
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